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  • Any information shared on Free Money Finance does not constitute financial advice. The Website is intended to provide general information only and does not attempt to give you advice that relates to your specific circumstances. You are advised to discuss your specific requirements with an independent financial adviser. All posts are © 2005-2008, Free Money Finance.

260 posts categorized "Debt"

May 13, 2008

Don't Go Into Debt with Someone Before You Marry Them

Here's a reminder from Bankrate not to commit to any debt with someone you're engaged to -- wait until you're married. The reason: engagements have ways of being cancelled (not that marriages don't, but the former is much easier to call off.) Bankrate's thoughts:

Do not, under any circumstances, take out a loan to buy your fiance a vehicle. Until you're married and have some legal ties that bind you together, he could back out of the marriage, disappear with the truck and leave you holding a large loan.

My niece is going through this same sort of trouble now -- but magnified greatly. She and her fiance bought a HOUSE together, and they planned to live in it after they got married. Guess what happened. Yep. They moved in together, then things went south. They broke off the engagement and now are living together but not as a couple and trying to figure out how to sell a house while not talking to each other. It's not a pretty sight.

May 09, 2008

How the Subprime Lending Meltdown Happened

The following is a guest post from Marotta Asset Management. Update: For a response to this post, see More Thoughts on the Subprime Crisis.

The subprime mortgage meltdown has cost the world 15% of its market capitalization, about $9 trillion. The primary culprit who caused all of this financial loss, pain and suffering is not the mortgage companies. Neither is it the overextended borrowers. It is our own federal regulations interfering with the free market.

For over half a century, only 45% of Americans owned their own home. Then home ownership rose in the postwar period, settling at about 64% in the early 1990s.

In 1994, President Clinton had the good intention of raising home ownership to 67.5% by 2000. He sponsored the revision of the Community Reinvestment Act (CRA) regulations, which required banks to increase mortgage lending to low- and moderate-income families. The banks complied and increased their lending to these families by 80%, more than twice any other group.

The sentiment was noble but ill advised. Community groups could now prevent banks from mergers, branch expansions or the creation of new branches simply by protesting to any of four different regulatory agencies. But these traditional activities of banks are necessary to stay responsive to the dynamics of the marketplace. To maintain this ability, banks paid millions to these community groups. In theory, they were supporting mortgage education efforts and fair lending practices. In reality, they were carrying a block of poor loans on their books simply as the price of doing business.

These community groups described the regulatory pressure forcing banks to increase their underwriting of low-income loans as a positive and encouraging trend. Bruce Marks of the Neighborhood Assistance Corporation of America boasted to the New York Times that he had gotten $3.8 billion in loan commitments in the city of Boston alone.

Faced with excessive regulatory interference, banks risked additional loan defaults rather than face financial penalties and blocked business. But in a situation characterized by excessive regulation, we all pay the price.

The unintended consequences of good intentions can do more economic harm than all the mean-spirited greed within capitalism.

Part of the good intention was forcing banks to be good neighbors by making altruistic loans that discriminated in favor of underprivileged communities. Any attempts by banks to set higher rates, terms or conditions on people with questionable credit was labeled "predatory lending" and used to hold lenders hostage. This form of price controls held the price on questionable loans artificially low.

Normally, price encourages consumers to self-ration and to use less of a limited resource such as capital and put it where it is likely to do the greatest good. Price controls cause shortages because lenders protect their losses by extending fewer risky loans. But this time, regulations forced them to continue making the loans.

Price controls and lower interest rates caused a surge in the demand for mortgage loans. In response, banks raised the requirements to qualify for a traditional loan and wrote more adjustable-rate mortgages (ARMs). Even ignoring their poor credit rating, questionable borrowers could only qualify for an ARM, and they could barely afford the low teaser.

Clinton's goal was met in 2000 and then surpassed, boosting U.S. home ownership by 2005 to 68.9%. Ownership for minorities grew by 24.1% between 1993 and 2005, nearly three times the rate of for non-minorities.

Another good intention driving the legislation was that home ownership correlates to building wealth, stability and community support. If only we could get struggling people to own their own home, they too could share in the American dream. But we build wealth by deciding consciously to delay purchases such as a home, not to overextend ourselves financially to reach our goals.

The idea was that purchasing a home is an investment. But the home you own is not an investment. An investment pays you money. Rental property is an investment. The house you live in is a liability, which increases proportionately with its size. The fastest way to own a house is to rent as small as possible and save and invest the difference. Low-income households have limited resources, and home ownership drains too high a percentage of their income. In fact, studies show that low-income home owners save less than renters and have less of an emergency fund.

The belief was that home owners build equity in their homes by making regular payments that include both interest and principal. For most families, paying a mortgage is a forced form of savings. But this assumes home owners have the cash flow that allows them to build equity in their houses. Encourage those unaccustomed or unable to save to become home owners, and they are apt to refinance and take any growing equity out of their house to fund other expenses.

In fact, that is exactly what happened.

Another good intention was the assumption that mortgages are always good business for banks. Lenders who didn't cheerfully agree were accused of discrimination against minorities by using “old-fashioned” criteria, such as the size of the mortgage payment relative to applicants' income, their credit history or verifying their savings and income. Instead, applicants merely had to demonstrate their ability to manage debt by attending a credit-counseling program.

But these old-fashioned criteria were historically what made loans secure and limited defaults. Forcing banks to lend money to those least likely to repay is not a sound policy.

That the credit debacle took two presidential terms to unravel is simply how economics works. Dropping interest rates and rising house prices masked the default rates as those who would have defaulted simply refinanced a larger loan, milking their homes for 100% of their value like an ATM machine.

Economist professors Stan Liebowitz and Ted Day criticized the program in 1998 in their article "Mortgages, Minorities, and Discrimination" in Economic Inquiry. They wrote, "After the warm and fuzzy glow of 'flexible underwriting standards' has worn off, we may discover that they are nothing more than standards that lead to bad loans. . . . [T]hese policies will have done a disservice to their putative beneficiaries if . . . they are dispossessed from their homes." Unfortunately, no one ever listens to economists.

Everyone was busy praising lenders using relaxed underwriting standards as the paragon of virtue. Although widely understood that approving minority mortgage applications stretched the rules a bit, it was considered good social engineering. Now they are universally criticized by the same crowd that formerly praised them.

Today, the people who advocated lax lending standards are self-righteously critical of lenders for letting this debacle happen. Having forced millions of bad loans, they are now complaining the government is paying a small portion of the losses back to Bear Stearns. Having enacted regulations that ruined the U.S. financial markets, they now claim the credit problems stem from a lack of regulation. Only government uses its power to cause such havoc and then asserts it needs more power.

Bailing out borrowers makes the least sense of all. Although routinely cast as victims, we must remember they substituted attendance at a credit-counseling class for hard collateral in their promise to repay. They purchased homes beyond their means, lived in relative luxury and bilked banks of any building equity by refinancing cash-outs of their homes every time real estate markets appreciated.

Although it isn't their fault for padding their lifestyle by exploiting regulatory mistakes, borrowers don't deserve a penny more. Regulators especially don't deserve a second chance to impose rigid rules on a system that requires dynamic adjustments. Having been hurt so badly by the conspiracy of regulators and irresponsible borrowers, we should at least allow lenders the consolation of foreclosing on the house of cards.

If the subprime meltdown was the result of greedy capitalists, you would have to assume they were awfully dumb to have lost so much money. The markets are smarter than that. Only feel-good legislation could be so naive. How can more government regulation help when there is universal ignorance of how the government caused the problem in the first place?

May 08, 2008

I Have a Great Credit Score

I've talked a lot about the need for a good credit score and how to get one in the past. For details, see these posts:

I have wanted/needed to check my credit score for some time now but hadn't gotten around to it. But as we get closer to buying a home (I'll update you if/when we get to that point), I got us pre-approved for a loan so that we could make a stronger offer to the seller (more on this later too.) Anyway, I called my banker to get pre-approved and in the process he pulled a credit report on me. I asked him what my credit score was. He had three listed with the average of them being 799.

So where does 799 put me? According to my banker, it puts me in line for the best rate on a mortgage. This agrees with what Get Rich Slowly says on the issue. 799 puts me well above the average credit score of 679 for my state, in the 87th percentile of all credit scores (one point more and I would have been in the highest group), among the best credit scores and well above the median credit score of 723.

And to round out the information, here's a bit more perspective on credit scores:

FICO scores range from around 300 to about 850. Approximately 1 percent of the population with established credit has credit scores below 500 and another 13 percent score from 500 to 600. By far the largest group, 28 percent, is in the 750 to 799 scoring range. About 11 percent of the population is in that rarified area above 800 points. The median credit score (the point where 50 percent rank higher and 50 percent rank lower) is 723.

And this piece answers what a "good" credit score is:

When lenders talk about "your score," they usually mean the FICO® score developed by Fair Isaac Corporation. It is today's most commonly used scoring system. FICO scores range from 300-850, and most people score in the 600s and 700s (higher FICO scores are better). Lenders buy your FICO score from three national credit reporting agencies (also called credit bureaus): Equifax, Experian and TransUnion.

In the eyes of most lenders, FICO credit scores above 700 are very good and a sign of good financial health. FICO scores below 600 indicate high risk to lenders and could lead lenders to charge you much higher rates or turn down your credit application.

When my banker reviewed my credit, had my income number, and knew that I wanted to buy a house I could afford, he pre-approved me over the phone and faxed an approval letter to my real estate agent within 15 minutes. I guess keeping your financial ducks in a row does have some benefits -- it sure made getting approved very easy.

BTW, for those wondering about me borrowing to buy a home (which is a switch since I haven't had a mortgage for a decade), I'll detail what I'm doing, how it will all work, etc. if and when we actually do make a bid on a house and it gets accepted.

April 18, 2008

Consider College Debt Carefully

Here's a good comment left on my post titled Stuck about taking on (and dealing with) substantial college debt:

I just want to comment on the education debt that Sarah and Jesse brought up. For those who are already in that situation, well, yes, I suppose that's one case where both parents would have to work. No argument there.

But for those who are at an earlier stage of their lives, there's a lesson to take from this. To take on that much debt is to make the choice to work--possibly for decades--after school to pay it back no matter what else might come up in your life that would otherwise be more important to you. Now, that's not to say don't get an education, or even to say don't go into debt to get it if that's what you have to do. But do choose your major wisely and think twice about picking that fancy private school. This is particularly true for people whose inclinations lead them to fields that are not reliably well compensated, like the arts or politics to name just a couple.

Sometimes it seems to me that people have lost their minds when it comes to education costs, in much the same way as people who drop 20 grand and up on their weddings.

This is in agreement with what I've written in posts like How to Get the Most Financially Out of College and Go to Law School Without Racking Up Tons of Debt (this isn't just for readers thinking about law school.) In particular, here's what I said on the latter post:

"The point is that you need to look at a college degree (including a law school degree) as an investment. What will it cost and what will you get out of it? Look at the best way to maximize this investment, and you'll be able to find a school that meets your needs and won't leave you in a ton of debt relative to your income. Ignore these factors and select a school based on considerations like campus feel, nearness to home, the popularity of the football team, one great professor, and so on, and you may be setting yourself up for a bad financial decision."

To me, college debt can be "good debt" as long as it's kept under control. And the main way to keep it under control is to compare it to what you'll be earning once you graduate. For instance, consider the following:

  • A teacher who will make $30,000 per year who leaves college with $30,000 in debt.
  • An engineer who will make $70,000 per year who leaves college with $30,000 in debt.

Any question about who is in better shape to deal with their college debt?

Choosing the Right Rewards Card for You

Here's a guest post from Miranda Marquit from the Personal Finance Corner on AllBusiness.com.

One of the fears I have conquered is my fear of credit cards. Of course, there is good reason to be wary of credit cards. The high interest rates and fees can be devastating if you carry a balance or get in too deep. But, if you choose carefully and wisely, credit cards can actually be a boon. I am, of course, talking about rewards cards.

When choosing a rewards card, it is important to first consider your priorities. Look at your spending habits, and think about what you normally spend money on. My parents and my husband’s parents live on opposite sides of the country. No matter where we live, we need to fly to visit someone’s family. So for us, it makes sense to have a rewards card that offers miles.

One of my friends likes the idea of getting Christmas for free. She has a rewards card that gives her in-store credit at a well-known toy chain. Every year she uses her rewards card to buy groceries and pay bills. At the end of the year, just in time for Christmas, she has enough to get all of the Christmas presents she gives to her children.

There are credit cards that help you set aside money for college, give you cash back, earn hotel stays and even donate a percentage of your purchases to charity. When choosing your rewards card, it is important to choose a card that works for you, and reflects your particular needs.

There are, however, a few things to keep in mind. After all, these are credit cards we’re dealing with.

  • Prepare a budget. Only put something on your credit card if it is in your budget and can be paid off each month.
  • Don’t carry a balance. When you carry a balance, the high interest charges can actually erase the value of your rewards (this is especially true of “cash back” cards).
  • Read the fine print. Before committing to a rewards card, make sure you understand what qualifies. Some purchases won’t gain you rewards. Also, especially for travel rewards, find out about blackout dates.

When you behave responsibly and create a plan for using your credit cards, you can actually come out ahead, allowing you to save money in the long run.

For more thoughts on credit cards from FMF, see these posts:

April 17, 2008

Debt Disease

Got this press release the other day:

Five students from across the United States – three from Ohio, one from Philadelphia and one from Michigan -- have been selected as the finalists in the Web-based video contest at www.KeepItInYourPants.org that offers a top prize of $5,000 for creating a public service announcement about the threat that “Debt Disease” poses to American consumers.

The winner of the contest will be named on April 23, 2008 at a red-carpet event in Charlotte, N.C. The first-place winner of the “Keep It In Your Pants” contest — which was open to students 14 years of age and older enrolled in middle school, junior high, high school, college, or graduate school — will receive a $5,000 scholarship for school-related expenses. 

The co-sponsors of the contest -– Service Employees International Union (SEIU) and the League of Young Voters (LYV) -- announced the following five finalists (in alphabetical order):

  • Nicholas Baker, of East Lansing, MI, a student at Michigan State University.  The video by Baker uses fast-moving graphics to illustrate the long-term consequences of debt disease.  You can see the video online here.
  • Angel Ho, of Philadelphia, PA, a student at the University of Pennsylvania.  The video by Ho shows a young man protecting himself by wrapping his credit cards – and his wallet – in condoms.  You can see the video online here.
  • Aimee Phillips, of Newark, OH, a student at Central Ohio Technical College. The video by Phillips is a 1950s-style flashback showing “Jimmy,” a student who graduates from high school and mistakenly thinks that being an adult means maxing out his credit card. You can see the video online here.
  • Leanna Pribonic, of Johnstown, OH, a student at Central Ohio Technical College.  The video by Pribonic features a testimonial from a distressed woman who confesses that she has no self control when it comes to her credit cards. You can see the video online here.
  • Jordan Unternaher, of Newark, Ohio, a student at Central Ohio Technical College.   The video by Unternaher focuses on locker room talk in which a young man share his problem and is told that abstinence is the only sure-fire cure for debt disease. You can see the video online here.

All five finalist videos can be reviewed here and the YouTube “Stop Debt Disease” channel.

I watched the videos and they're fairly entertaining. Stop by and check them out if you'd like some cute takes on "debt disease."

March 26, 2008

790s Credit Score Barely Enough In Today’s Loan Market?

Here's a guest post from Can I Get Rich On A Salary.

Banks are falling, the Fed is jumping in aggressively, and the bigger players are acquiring the most distressed ones for pennies on the dollar. And the rumor went something like this: some lending institutions are going to start pulling home-equity lines of credit (HELOCs). I understood this to mean not letting people draw down on their existing equity lines.

It’s just a rumor, though it was passed on to me by a mortgage broker. As rumors are prone to do, it’s probably evolved in my head, and I’ve probably misremembered some part of it. And at the end of the day, I have nothing at which to point that shows it’s anything but a rumor.

But I can tell you that it has been much harder for my wife and I to redo one of our HELOCs than I ever thought it would be. We’re undertaking a big landscaping project, and we wanted to increase the available credit—both to finance the project and to give ourselves some cushion for emergencies. So we asked our bank to increase the line by $80K.

Granted, that’s a chunk of change. But my wife’s and my credit is excellent. The last time we checked, our credit scores were in the high 790s. (She’s competitive about most everything, and her 799 or whatever was admittedly higher than mine....) We don’t have any non-mortgage debt, our income is strong, and we have a long history with this bank—maybe 18 years. And we have more assets with this bank (savings and brokerage) than the $80K we were requesting.

The first troubling sign was that the bank did not have its own act together. Apparently, it was changing its policies faster than its own people could keep up! The person who took our application on the phone said we could and should apply for credit up to 85% of the value of our house.

A day later, the online status said we’d been denied.

After some mild panic, and several telephone calls, I figured out that the bank was now only approving lines up to 80% of value. Lowering our request put us back in play. Still, the bank then made us put in a full application for a new HELOC, rather than an increase. This also meant we had to provide full back-up documentation on our income and finances—as if the bank knew nothing about us. Five weeks later, we’ve finally been “conditionally approved.” Hopefully, we’ll be able to close on this soon, but I’m not counting any chickens.

And this was just for an equity line. It sounds like it is that much harder to get a new jumbo mortgage. A recent CNN/Money article suggests as much:

“Even if you have good credit, you don't know if they are going to give you a loan or not,” said Joseph Mason, a senior fellow at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania.

I have to think—or maybe just really want to think—that folks with good credit and financials will still be able to get mortgages and HELOCs at the end of the day. This may be true, but that same CNN/Money article reports borrowers will have to do more to get them:

Borrowers must also put more money down, especially if they don't have stellar credit. For instance, those with down payments of less than 5% need a credit score of at least 680, said Steven Plaisance, executive vice president of Arvest Mortgage Co. in Tulsa, Ok. Previously, he could make loans to people without big down payments if they had other strong points, such as stable employment.

Who is out there applying for mortgages, and what have your experiences been?

March 14, 2008

Be Careful with Home Equity and 401k Credit Cards

Here's a guest post from Emily at Credit Cards Blog.

Credit cards mean different things to different people. Some see them as a way to get by when unexpected expenses arise. Some see them as a necessary evil that enslaves them to crippling debt. Others see them as an investment opportunity and funnel their 0 percent APR credit lines into a high-yield savings account to make money.

It should be noted, however, that the advent of the home equity credit card and 401(k) debit card should frighten even the hardiest plastic user. Misuse of these products can result not just in debt, but in the loss of your home and future financial security.

HELOC credit cards

The Federal Reserve explains a home equity line of credit, or HELOC,  as "a form of revolving credit in which your home serves as collateral." A HELOC functions like a credit card and is slightly different from a home equity loan, which functions more like a mortgage. A home equity loan is one lump sum used for one major expense. A HELOC allows you to draw multiple times as needed for a certain period of time, such as 10 years, and it can be accessed by electronic transfer, check or a home equity credit card. You pay back only what you use in addition to interest, which is set at a variable rate. This means your rate will fluctuate, for better or worse. Interest paid is often tax deductible, which can reduce borrowing costs.

Over the past few years, banks have begun issuing HELOCs in the form of credit cards to consumers. Harris, a financial service organization, recently launched a MasterCard that allows customers to access their home equity line of credit through the card. The card can be used like a credit card or as a debit card for ATM withdrawals. Chase also has one, called the Chase Equiline Platinum Visa.

The Federal Reserve says most people use HELOCs for major expenses such as education, home improvements or medical bills rather than day-to-day expenses. But by utilizing this line of credit with a credit card, it is easier to spend frivolously on mundane purchases. Your home is probably your largest asset, and it is something you may not want to put at risk by living above your means. If you fail to repay the loan, your house will be foreclosed.  As if we haven't seen enough of that lately.

CNN Money says HELOCs are ideal for those who have already paid off their first mortgages and want quick access to cash in case of emergency. Remember: While your home equity is more easily accessible in the form of plastic, it's one debt you can't afford to default on.

401(k) debit cards

For those who don't know, 401(k)s are employer-sponsored retirement plans. A set portion of the employee's income is paid directly to the investment account, and taxes are deferred on the money and earnings until funds are withdrawn. If you try to take the money out before age 59 1/2, you are subjected to harsh tax penalties. You can take a loan out from your 401(k), but the loan must be repaid within five years if you are still with the company, and interest is charged. If you take a loan out and then leave the company, you must pay the 401(k) loan back within 60 days, or you are charged extra fees and taxes.

Now some companies offer employees a debit card, called ReservePlus, which allows loans to be taken from their 401(k) accounts. Once employees are approved for a loan, they receive the debit card, with which they can take out as much as they want from the loan. ReservePlus functions as an ATM card that can be used to withdraw cash or buy goods and services. It has been around for a few years, but its popularity has been growing.

According to an article on The Street, the loan doesn't begin until money is actually taken from the account and usually lasts around five years. Employees are billed directly, and pay back much as they would a credit card. Some employers offer revolving loans, allowing employees to remove and return money as needed.

Using these cards should be a last resort. The extra taxes and fees imposed upon 401(k) loans add up. The Washington Times wrote an article about the dangers of 401(k) cards and quotes a financial planner, Stuart Ritter from T. Rowe Price, who says these cards are a bad investment. Ritter says for every $10 you take out in loans, you only have about $6 of it to spend after expenses, so you're essentially losing a third of your money. "You're also giving up money to spend in retirement, so you are by definition lowering your lifestyle in retirement," Ritter tells the Times.

One perk of the card is that employees can pay off the loan in a time frame of several years, even if they leave the company. That is not an option with a regular 401(k) loan, so that may be helpful for some. One major downfall of the debit card is that its interest rate is higher than that of traditional loans. According to The Street article, ReservePlus loans typically have interest rates 2.9 percent higher than the prime rate.

While a major financial crunch may cause you to fall back on your retirement savings, remind yourself how long you've been stashing that money aside so you can enjoy old age comfortably. This money should be left alone if possible. If taking a loan from your 401(k) is your only option for an emergency situation, it may be manageable, but pay it back as soon and as fast as you can. Otherwise, I'd suggest using a 0 percent APR credit card to avoid the tax penalties, high interest rate and additional fees.

Think first

Most Americans have abandoned the saving mentality and prefer to make purchases on credit, which can be dangerous. Before you borrow against your home or drain your retirement fund, ask yourself if it's really worth it. Determine how vital the purchase really is, because these loans are complicated and can have dire consequences if mismanaged. Ask yourself if it is possible to spend a few months saving up instead, or if there is a low-interest credit card that could better do the job. Using the HELOC or 401(k) cards may work well for some financial crises, but they are not ideal for people who just want another way to live above their means. If you are highly concerned about your finances, before taking such a drastic step, consider meeting with a fee-only financial planner. He or she can help determine the wisest path for you.

Help a Reader: Get Out of Debt

Here's a comment that was left recently here:

I am just starting out trying to get out of debt. I wish like the other guy I would of learned along time ago to save all that extra we had. Now I have put us in a Financial mess. Have any of you tried the CCC companies and do they help. I can't file bankruptcy because I have one going to college in 2 and half years. I am so lost I owe way to much money to people and it is stressing me out. PLEASE ADVICE!!!!!

So, what would you tell him about debt counseling services? And any specific thoughts on getting out of debt?

Here's what I'd suggest:

March 05, 2008

What Do You Think of Store Credit Cards?

The other night after a dinner out, my wife and I did a bit of shopping. We stopped at both J.C. Penney's and Kohl's and I was struck by the fact of how aggressive both stores were in pushing people to sign up for their store credit card. But had incentives (save 10%-20%) for applying for the card, but we declined. Why? Mainly for these reasons:

  • I don't want to have to deal with another credit card. Just having it -- even if I only lock it up in our safe -- is enough of a hassle for me. Besides, opening a new account could impact my credit score and since we're within a few months (hopefully) of buying a new home, I'm not taking any risks.
  • I don't want to blurt out my Social Security number in the middle of a store. Ever applied for a store credit card? At some point the clerk entering your information asks "what is your Social Security number?" Then you not only have to tell her what it is, but anyone else standing nearby (and there's always a pack at most of these counters) can hear as well. Saving $15 is not worth the chance of me losing my identity.
  • It wasn't that much of a savings. Maybe if I was buying a $2,000 TV, then I might consider getting a card since $400 would be a nice savings. But $15, while not chump change, isn't a ton of money. Hey, maybe I have a new recommendation -- save applying for a store credit card for when you have a HUGE purchase.

A couple other bloggers also recently wrote on this topic. For additional thoughts, see Don't Be Tempted to Save 10% By Opening a Store Credit Card and Tales of a Cashier - Store Credit Cards.

What about you? What's your take on having a store credit card?

February 28, 2008

When Should You Refinance Your Mortgage?

If I had a mortgage, I'd be looking at whether or not I should refinance it. Rates have dropped enough recently that it might save me some good money. And though I don't have a mortgage, many readers here likely do, so I thought I'd post on an MSNBC piece that lists when you should and shouldn't consider refinancing. But before we get to those, let's look at their general rule-of-thumb on when it makes financial sense to consider refinancing:

Many lenders say closing costs related to a refinance aren’t worth it if you’re shaving less than 50 basis points (0.5 percent) off your current interest rate, or 25 basis points with no closing fees.

Wow, things have changed a lot since I had a mortgage in the Dark Ages. Back then, the rule was to make a switch only if you saved 200 basis points (2% interest) so you could cover all the associated fees. I guess fees have dropped a bit since then, huh?

Ok, now on to their lists. Here's when you should consider refinancing:

  • You have a fixed or adjustable mortgage with an interest rate over 6 percent.
  • Your credit score is over 650.
  • You live in an expensive urban market and have a mortgage over $417,000.
  • You’re eligible to refinance to an FHA loan.
  • You have at least 10 percent equity in your home and aren’t FHA-eligible.

And now the list for when you shouldn't consider refinancing:

  • Your interest rate on a fixed loan is below 6 percent or you plan to move soon.
  • Your credit score is below 650 or your credit report has blemishes.
  • You have less than 10 percent equity in your home.
  • You live in a “declining market.”
  • You’re self-employed or want to pursue a “stated income” or “no-doc” loan.
  • You’re facing foreclosure.

Can't say there are really any surprises here. If you have good credit, a higher-rate loan, and any sort of decent equity, seems like you should be set. Others may find the road a bit harder to travel.

Anyone out there refinanced yet? Anyone planning to? Or maybe you're waiting for rates to drop again?

February 15, 2008

Should You Keep or Close Credit Accounts to Keep/Get Your Credit Score High?

There seems to be a lot of contradictory information about credit accounts and whether or not closing one has a good or bad impact on your credit score. Bankrate weighs in on this issue and tells us why the answer isn't clear one way or the other. They start with the reasons to keep the accounts open:

Keeping the accounts open helps maintain a low ratio between outstanding balances and available credit lines -- that's called the credit utilization ratio. Not bumping up against your credit limits shows you're not running out of available credit. Lenders like borrowers who aren't desperate.

The length of time the account has been open also influences your credit score. Having a clean payment history on an account with a 10-year history is more valuable to your credit score than a clean payment history on an account that you've only had for a year or two.

And here are the reasons to close certain accounts:

On the other hand, every open credit line is a commitment by a lender to loan you money. A lender considering a credit application is going to look at those open lines as potential loans that can demand a part of your income. That's money that won't be available for their loan payment.

And they end with some fairly specific advice:

In the short-term, it's a bad idea to close accounts in an attempt to improve your credit score. Longer term, managing your credit accounts is a part of managing credit. Not holding on to cards with annual fees or cards with high interest rates can make sense.

There's no magic number of credit cards you can have before it starts to hurt your credit score. By pruning away some of the unused accounts, you can free up space for a new card.

My advice is for you to review your credit reports and get a handle on the number, age and credit limits of your open accounts. If your credit is in good shape (a score in the mid- to upper 700s or higher) and you don't have any immediate plans to apply for credit, feel free to cancel a credit card or two. Choose cards recently issued or those with lousy credit terms. Wait a year before repeating this process.

A few thoughts from me on this information:

1. "Not holding on to cards with annual fees or cards with high interest rates can make sense." CAN make sense? How about DOES make sense?

2. I only carry/use two credit cards anyway. I could earn a bit more rewards if I carried more but for me the hassle just isn't worth it.

3. One of my New Year's resolutions is to check my credit score. I'm betting I'm in the mid- to upper 700s, but I'm not sure.

January 28, 2008

10 Commandments of Personal Finance, Commandments #5 and #6: Pay Bills and Avoid Schemes

Bankrate offers a list of the 10 commandments of personal finance that I'll be sharing with all of you as well as providing my thoughts on their selections. I'm sharing two commandments today:

V. Thou shalt pay monthly bills on time

By paying your bills every month, you will keep your good credit rating. In addition, you won't have to pay late fees.

VI. Thou shalt avoid get-rich-quick schemes

Most of the wealthy people in the world didn't get that way with get-rich-quick schemes. If it's too good to be true, it usually is, says Sebold.

Basic advice but still worth noting. After all, these two still trip up many people (especially the get-rich-quick schemes.)

For related thoughts on this topic from Free Money Finance, see these posts:

Click here to read part 7 of this series.

Click here to read part 1 of this series.

January 26, 2008

10 Commandments of Personal Finance, Commandment #4: Thou Shalt Limit the Amount of Debt on Credit Cards

Bankrate offers a list of the 10 commandments of personal finance that I'll be sharing with all of you as well as providing my thoughts on their selections. The commandment for today:

IV. Thou shalt limit the amount of debt on credit cards

Sebold recommends that you never use more than 50 percent of your available credit line on each credit card you have. For example, if you have a credit card with a $6,000 credit limit, don't use more than $3,000.

Sweeney recommends that people limit the number of credit cards they use, and in her opinion, no one should have more than two main credit cards. Department store credit cards are different because it's easier to keep a handle on those because you're most likely not going to shop there every day.

Here's what I'd add:

1. Only charge items that you have in your budget.

2. Pay the cards off every month.

3. If you're in credit card debt already, spend less than you earn and apply the surplus to the card's balance until it's gone.

4. As most of you know, I use credit cards as a way to earn extra money for doing what I'd already do (buy things.)

5. BTW, I use the two-card guideline too, but for me it's more of a convenience factor. I don't want to have to manage 10 cards.

For related thoughts on this topic from Free Money Finance, see these posts:

Click here to read parts 5 and 6 of this series.

Click here to read part 1 of this series.

January 24, 2008

Help Readers with Debt Problems

Here are a couple of recent questions left on my post titled The Statute of Limitations on Debt. Here's the first:

I don't know if this is the right venue to ask questions or only post comments. I am being summoned to appear in regards to credit card debt that is over 7 years old. It is my understanding that it is beyond the statue of limitations, 6 years in Michigan. When I appear in court, without an attorney, do I bring a copy of the statute and credit report to defense my point?

Here's the second one:

I loan someone a total of approximately $40,000 between Jan 2003 and Aug. 2007. We both lived and still reside in Florida through the duration of these transactions.

When does my statues of limitations actually begin from the time the check was cashed or from when the last loan transaction took place? I gave him the first original loan for almost $18,000 in Jan 2003 and loaned numerous amounts and or paid directly for him for rent, car payments, insurance, medical bills, etc. through the remained of the time period.

Please tell me I still have hope of recouping this money. I do not have a legal signed agreement for the transactions, but I do have emails and text messages saying he will pay but just doesn't have the money right now. I have copies of the canceled checks, bank statements showing withdrawals from my account to deposit in his, payment for car via over-the-phone banking.

What can I do to legally recoup this money? Please offer some insight please. Besides I was a fool for trusting this person to pay me back promptly. he has paid a little her or there but nothing substantial - maybe a few hundred or so over the course of this time period.

Can anyone out there give some knowledgeable advice to either or both of these commenters?

January 02, 2008

How to Handle Six Money Dilemmas, Prepay Your Mortgage OR Invest

Money magazine lists six money dilemmas and what to do about them. Over the next few days, I'll list each dilemma, what Money suggests as the best option, my take on the issue, and additional FMF posts on the topic. Here goes:

Dilemma #4: Prepay Your Mortgage OR Invest

Money's suggestion: Investing wins.

My take: I have a mixed response on this one, but for the most part, I'm going against the flow.

I would first fully refund my retirement plans (for me it was my 401k) and THEN I would pay off debt. I know that Money recommends investing that second portion as well, but we simply wanted to be rid of the debt and owe nothing to anyone. Could we have made more money with another option. Probably. Did we rest better at night knowing we didn't owe anyone anything? Certainly. Have we done well financially as a result of our plan. Yep, our net worth has continued to grow dramatically throughout the years.

FMF posts related to this topic: Paying Off a Mortgage Versus Investing, My Formula for Buying a House

December 27, 2007

How to Handle Six Money Dilemmas, Credit Card Versus 401k

Money magazine lists six money dilemmas and what to do about them. Over the next few days, I'll list each dilemma, what Money suggests as the best option, my take on the issue, and additional FMF posts on the topic. Here goes:

Dilemma #1: Pay off a credit card OR fund your 401(k)

Money's suggestion: If you have a big credit-card balance, wipe it out before you open a 401(k).

My take: This is a very hard one -- probably the hardest of the group.

I never really had to face this situation since I've always paid off my credit cards in full. So my suggestion would be to never buy anything on a credit card that you can't pay off right away. If you live by that principle, you'll never have to face this issue.

But if I was in the situation where I did have credit card debt, I'd first look to cut my expenses so I could do both (pay off the cards and at least get my 401k match). If I couldn't do both, I'd look at the interest on the credit card and how much I owed on it. If it was above 15% or so and if it was a big balance, I'd pay it off first. If it was below 15% and not such a big balance, I'd go with the 401k first (but still would sell some things, take gifts, etc. and pay off the debt asap).

FMF posts related to this topic: Help a Reader: 401k or Debt, 401k Match Trumps Debt Repayment

What's your take on the issue?

December 19, 2007

Why You May or May Not Want to Consolidate Your Loans

USA Today talks about college students consolidating their student loans, but their list can be applied to anyone who has loads of debt and wants to have them all consolidated with one lender. They suggest the following as reasons to consider loan consolidation:

  • You still have variable-rate loans.
  • Lower payments.
  • Fewer bills to pay.
  • Borrower benefits.

They are correct -- these are benefits of loan consolidation. If you are someone who accumulated tons of debt and now has your finances under control, debt consolidation can be something you'll want to seriously consider. But in most of the cases I've dealt with, loan consolidation is used incorrectly and leads to people becoming mired in additional debt. It goes something like this:

1. Jim spends like crazy racking up tons of debt -- much of it credit card debt.

2. Jim's debt gets to the point where he can't manage it. He simply owes too much and at too high of a rate. It's putting a lot of pressure on him and his finances.

3. Jim consolidates his loans. He usually gets a lower rate than what he was paying and he extends the payments over more years. This allows him to make a much lower monthly payment, taking pressure off his finances and freeing up some cash every month.

4. He goes back to his free-spending ways, racking up more debt (again, much of it is on credit cards.)

5. He eventually gets back to the point he was in in #2 above. Only this time, no one will consolidate his loan -- he's simply got too much debt and is too risky. Now he's stuck, and he's in big financial trouble.

So let me say it again: If you are someone who accumulated tons of debt and now has your finances under control, debt consolidation can be something you'll want to seriously consider. But if you don't have your finances (your spending, really) under control, then I recommend you do NOT opt for a loan consolidation. It won't help you in the long run and eventually you'll end up in worse shape than you are now.

December 12, 2007

Help a Reader: 401k or Debt

Here's a question I received from a reader recently. I think it's a pretty easy decision, but maybe I'm missing something:

I am starting a new job with a nice raise.  I am debating what to do with the additional money.

The new job has a very generous 401(k) match - 75% of the first 8% contributed.  However, my wife and I are aggressively paying down some substantial debt - primarily a $10,000 car loan at 5.9% interest and a personal loan of $10,000 at 8.9% interest.   We also have over $40,000 in student loans that we would like to pay off ahead of schedule.

The problem is this, if I contribute 8% of my salary to the 401(k) in order to get the match I will not be able to pay extra towards the debt.  Should I use my raise to fund my 401(k) to get the company match, or use it to pay off debt?

So, what would you advise him to do?

FYI, we discussed this issue last Friday if you want to see what people had to say on the comparison of debt versus a 401k.

December 07, 2007

401k Match Trumps Debt Repayment

Bankrate notes that you should take a 401k match before paying off debt (in this case, they're talking credit card debt). As if the reason isn't totally obvious, here's why:

You may be paying 13 percent on your credit card, but you're earning 50 percent on the typical company match.

Let's see -- which is better -- a 50% return or a 13% return? ;-)

For some of us, the issue is even more glaring. Anyone out there get a 100% match? Many do.

Yeah, I'm a big believer in paying off all kinds of debt, but there are better options that have to be exhausted first, and getting the full employer match on a 401k is a major one. Even when I was paying off my mortgage a decade ago, I still put as much as I could into my 401k first. Not only did I get the match, but that money has now been working for me for ten years and it's grown into a sizeable chunk of change. I plan to let it sit for a couple more decades -- it should REALLY be a nice sum by then.

For more thoughts on 401ks, retirement, and debt, see these posts:

December 04, 2007

An Example of Debt-Free, Spend Less than You Earn Living

I recently noted how one guy got rich while making only $20k a year, but here's a great "spend less than you earn" story that's a bit closer to home. It's from an email I recently received from a grade-school friend of mine that I've kept in touch with. She was thinking of buying a new house, but it didn't fit within her family's finances. Then she shared some other info I thought illustrated what can happen when you consistently spend less than you earn and also live debt free:

Well, we never did buy that other house - just couldn't bring myself to go in debt again - especially for something that would take so much work.  But I wanted to share with you our "financial year in review." Keep in mind I never could budget - just not my style.  I just believe in paying off credit cards each month, paying off a house in 10 years or less, never buying a vehicle for more than we have saved, and buying the heck out of things on sale - whether we'll ever use them or not.

This year, big things hit.  We had to replace our roof - $14,000. Jesse got braces - $3500.  Earl got major dental work - $3000. Bought a van - $5500.  New furnace - $2000.  New water system - $3200.  None of these things were expected.  Yet we were able to pay for them all - on a teacher's salary and a farmer's salary small enough to qualify our kids for free lunches.  Didn't completely wipe out our savings either.  We still have taxes to pay, and we REALLY need a different vehicle, but we'll make it.  We won't be able to remodel the hideous kitchen as soon as we would like, but I haven't yet figured out what I want there anyway.  It really helps when you don't have a mortgage and car payments hanging over your head...

Let's summarize her situation:

1. Debt free at the start of the year.

2. Over $31,000 of unexpected expenses.

3. Very little income.

4. No debt at the end of the year.

So this means she's had a good-sized emergency fund, which means she's been spending less than she earns and storing away the difference for probably quite some time. No, she isn't rich, but she's doing better than most on an income that many would likely find unmanageable.

Here again is a real-life example of what can happen when someone is debt free and watches their spending -- even if they don't have a huge income. Seems like this is a reoccurring theme, huh?

December 03, 2007

How to Buy a Car for Cash

I've said that people need to buy a house they can afford as part of an overall, money-savvy plan when purchasing a house, but I don't think I've ever posted anything similar about buying cars. Then I saw this information from MSN that says people are extending their car payments out farther and farther in order to be able to afford the car they want, and I knew I had to say something. The details:

Buyers are paying more, extending loan terms and making smaller down payments, according to a recent study by the Consumer Bankers Association. Many buyers also wrap old loans -- for vehicles they haven't yet paid off -- into the terms of their new deals.

About 60% of buyers are opting for loan terms of more than five years, the study said.

"It's been steadily stretching for many years," says Elmendorf. And it's because buyers want to get a better-quality car and still keep their payments low.

Can I just say, "Yikes!"

Before I comment further, let me include some good advice this article gives:

"They're stretching in a lot of cases and may be well advised to pick a more affordable model or keep their car a little longer," says Fritz Elmendorf, the vice president of communications for the bankers association.

It is a very, very, very bad idea to plow money into a high-cost, long-term purchase that depreciates quickly. It's even a worse idea to extend the payments so you maximize the amount of interest you pay on the debt.

Instead, let me offer this series of suggestions for how to buy a car:

  1. Start by spending less than you earn so you have a reasonable cash flow to generate some savings.
  2. Pay off your current car asap. Put any extra money towards getting rid of this debt.
  3. Start saving for your next car now. Put away at least the same amount as your old car payment and preferably more.
  4. Drive your current car as long as you can (which is the time when major repairs start to hit.)
  5. When your old car is as old as it can be and isn't useful any more, sell it (if you can get anything for it).
  6. Take your savings and the amount you got from selling the car and buy a good, reliable, used car. If you need to take out a small loan to do this, it's ok -- just make sure the loan is substantially less than the loan you had on your last car.
  7. Repeat steps 2-6 over and over again until you can pay cash for a new car (if you want a new car, that is.) From here on out, you'll have no car debt.

This is what we did, though we live well below our means so we only had to go through the cycle once. I know many people can't do that (or choose not to based on their current spending), but if you make a good deal of progress on each car you buy, the debt for every new one should be less and less until it disappears altogether.

November 21, 2007

Bankruptcy Is To Be Avoided at All Costs

In Bankruptcy or Foreclosure? I had one reader leave this comment:

I personally can't comment on foreclosure, but the effects of bankruptcy tend to linger a very long time - personally, professionally and emotionally. Ours happened 8+ years ago and of course, it is still reflected on our credit report. It was extremely embarrassing when we went to purchase our daughter a car and it was brought out in the negotiations with her sitting beside us. We had never discussed this with her - she was only 8 at the time of the bankruptcy. It was not something that concerned her and she didn't need to be concerned about her parent's financial stability. I have missed out on job opportunities due to this also - having been upfront and honest with the potential employer. My best advice - work as hard as you can to do whatever you can to prevent declaring bankruptcy.

And a few days later, I found this piece that says big lenders keep squeezing consumers who filed for bankruptcy. The highlights:

The Raleigh, N.C. factory worker pulled himself out from beneath a mountain of bills by means of a bankruptcy proceeding that wrapped up in 2002. One of the debts the judge canceled, or "discharged," was $9,523 Rathavongsa owed to Capital One Financial, the big credit-card company. But Capital One continued to report the factory worker's discharged debt to credit bureaus as a live balance, according to documents filed in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Raleigh.

This kind of failure by creditors to update credit reports happens with some frequency, consumer lawyers and court-employed bankruptcy trustees say. And it can have consequences: In September, 2003, when Rathavongsa tried to close on a $274,650 mortgage for a new house, his would-be lender, Wachovia, said he would either have to pay Capital One or show proof from the credit-card company that the debt had been discharged. Despite several calls and a letter from his attorney, he says, Capital One never revised the credit report. To obtain the home loan, Rathavongsa eventually did what many consumers in this situation do. He gave in and paid Capital One $9,523 he no longer legally owed.

These are just two of the horror stories associated with bankruptcy. I'm sure someone will comment here on how well their bankruptcy went, but if it was me, I'd do everything I could to avoid filing for it. It would certainly have to be the last chance I had to get my life back before I'd proceed with it.

Anyone else have a different perspective?

November 20, 2007

What's the Perfect Credit Score?

Here's a Kiplinger piece on the perfect credit score. There really isn't one perfect score, but they do give some useful information on the range your score needs to be in to get you the best financial advantage. Their thoughts:

Once your score is in the mid 700s, you won't have trouble qualifying for the best interest rates (the median FICO score is 723).

The piece then lists three simple rules for boosting your credit score:

First, pay bills on time. Your payment history makes up more than one-third of your score, so "the single worst thing for your credit is to be reported late," says Fair Isaac's Craig Watts.

How much you owe makes up another third of your score. In FICO's model, your actual credit limit isn't as important as your "credit utilization ratio" -- the percentage of your limit that you've actually used. It's best to keep the balances on your cards below 25% of your available credit.

New credit also takes a toll -- especially for people with a short credit history or few accounts -- so be judicious in applying for it. Take on new credit only when you need it.

The piece notes that 42% of consumers have never checked their score. Maybe it's because they don't know how to get it. Here's one way:

Among the three bureaus, for example, only Equifax sells the FICO score, for which you'll